'A sea kayak expedition to Scotland was first talked about
when Teresa, Geoff and I first met on the IOPCC training
course (2 star improvers) in March this year. Over the
months since then we have all progressed very much having
invested various amounts of money on courses, and increasing
our experience with many days on the water. This has all
paid off as Teresa and Geoff both passed their 3 star
Assessment early in September and I passed my 4 Star Leader
Assessment recently (I passed my 3 Star back in April)
As between the three of us we did not have much experience
of sea kayaking in Scotland we hired a local guide to join
us. The plan also being that we would gain enough confidence
to plan our own trips to Scotland in the future without a
guide. Colin our guide knows the area very well and gave us
a running commentary of places passed, the wildlife, local
history and tales and also had suggestions on the best
places to wild camp and to get hot chocolate and chips and
some shelter from the typically Scottish weather that we
experienced. (Going indoors was against our expedition rules
but very welcome the few times we did it!).
Below is a brief account of our trip, which we all have
contributed to, which we hope will inspire you to visit this
amazing place which really is heaven for sea kayakers, with
amazing scenery and wildlife and peace and quiet even with
the wind and the rain! Our planned itinerary had to be
changed due to strong winds and big seas but we still had an
amazing trip and can’t wait to go back. Planning for the
next trip has already started, this time without a guide!'
Julie Wood
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Sunday 19th September 2010
Tayvallich to Carsaig 30km
Colin, our guide had joined us for a pre expedition dinner
in the pub the night before so we were all briefed up and
ready for launching this morning.
Making sure everything fitted in the kayaks after another
practice run yesterday was a little stressful but we managed
to get everything in including a few bottles of booze and
food for six days. So without too much fuss we were on the
water and setting off towards Carsaig. Picturesque views of
Loch and Castle Sween were increasingly lost in driving rain
though and with strong winds and loaded kayaks our first
journey was fairly arduous. After heading down to the Island
of Eilean Mor and back up the west side of the Peninsula we
arrived at camp one, which was not the most idyllic, but we
managed to put up the tarp and cook our first meal. The rain
didn’t stop all night but we all slept well.
Monday 20th September
Carsaig to small island in Loch
Craignish 24km
We awoke to find the rain had not stopped so after a
breakfast under the tarp we broke camp and headed out from
the shelter of the bay into strong winds and rain. Sunlight
broke through dark clouds though just outside the bay to
highlight a pod of dolphins spectacularly leaping across our
path ahead. Probably Common but they could have been
Bottlenose. Such delightful creatures and a real treat to
see them.
We hugged the shoreline gaining some shelter as we journeyed
north along the Sound of Jura towards Loch Craignish. As the
sky brightened we were treated to spectacular vistas and
delighted in watching a sea eagle soaring high above the
hill tops. Along the entire route we were spotting lots of
seals popping up too see what was going on. |
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| Julie sorting out her
belongings |
Burt! |
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| Seil Sound |
Tigh-An-Truish Inn |
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| Clachan Bridge |
Looking out from camp |
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| Fantastic views |
Teresa's ledge
campsite |
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| Blue sky and flat
water |
Julie and Geoff |
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| Cold and frosty
morning |
Dawn at Tayvallich |
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| Julie, Teresa and
Geoff |
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We stopped for lunch opposite Crinan on a beach next to a
real Scottish castle where the sun came out and we all
basked in it and marvelled at the scenery.
Unfortunately, the day was disrupted with Teresa suffering a
migraine which left her incapacitated. The group dynamics
dealt quickly with the situation, with Colin and Geoff
towing whilst Julie searched out a suitable landing/camping
spot. On landing Teresa was safely tucked up in her tent and
kept a close eye on whilst she slept it off.Tuesday 21st September
Island in Loch Craignish to Torsa
via Dorus Mor 30km
Colin departed early to meet Jill, his partner, to collect
medicine as a precaution to any further migraines, and we
broke up camp. Fortunately Teresa was feeling much better.
Another blustery day so again we stayed close to the shore
and headed south down to Dorus Mor which has a bit of a
reputation! We may have had to go round the islands south of
it had it been working but it was pretty calm (which was a
bit disappointing!) so we headed through it without any
problems. We spied the Gulf of Corryvrecken in the distance
where we were going had it not been for the wind and noted
this for a future trip!
Against expedition regulations (Teresa’s!) we stopped at
Craobn Haven Marina for a caffeine fix (gratefully accepted
by all including Teresa!) and a quick hair wash
(Teresa’s!!!)
Further along the coast Teresa formed a very special bond
with a seal (which she named Burt!) Following her for a fair
distance into a crystal clear bay it gradually plucked up
enough courage to nudge her boat and play with the toggle
posing for the camera
A marvellous feeling to be so close to a wild animal.
With a following sea and wind we surfed passed Shuna Island
to our camp on the Island of Torsa just in time for the sky
to cloud over and the rain to start.
Teresa decided that her camp was going to be high up on an
ancient turret with spectacular views whilst the rest of us
opted for more sheltered sites!
The tarp was erected with great skill using all of our
paddles, splits and a boat and we cooked our evening meal
under it. The strong wind and heavy rain buffeted our tents
the entire night, but we battened down the hatches and
wondered if Teresa would still be there in the morning!!
Wednesday 22nd September
Torsa Island to Barnacary Bay
16km
We awoke to another very wet and windy day. But fortunately
the tarp stayed up all night so we were able to shelter
under it for breakfast, have a session on what you need in a
expedition repair kit and plan our day.
We had hoped to go
west out to Easedale Island but the weather was yet again
against us So we set off up Seil Sound and again, breaking
with expedition rules, we opted for a hot lunch at
Tigh-An-Truish Inn, (translates into “get your trousers off
in English”!!) next to the Clachan Bridge (Atlantic Bridge)
sheltering from the heavy rain and waiting for the tide to
turn.
We enjoyed a very relaxing lunch, with hot chocolate to
follow as the damp had soaked through and we were all rather
chilled. Julie donned her
Reed Stealth Cag (it’s what all
the fashionista’s are wearing) and we left deep puddles
under our seats. Colin over indulged on the chip front,
ordering two extra portions - nearly but not quite finished!
We paddled on once the water was deep enough after a photo
opportunity taken from the Clachan Bridge of us kayaking underneath.
The afternoon gradually became dryer and
brighter and we were treated to a picturesque panorama, flat
water, reflections, islands and mountains and peacefulness
and some fun rock hopping!
We chose well for our campsite in a idyllic spot with far
reaching views to Mull and Kerrera and enjoyed a colourful
sunset, beach camp fire and couple of drams of malt!
Teresa once again opted for a high level campsite perched on
a ledge overlooking the bay and also was the only one to
enjoy “a delightful and invigorating swim!”
Thursday 23rd September
Barnacary Bay to Ganavan Sands
18km
Strong winds and large white horses made for a strenuous
paddle and we hugged the
shoreline for shelter again. The wind had switched round to
the north so it was feeling colder but no rain. We paddled
up the coast line towards Oban then headed over to the
Island of Kerrera and the small marina at Ardentrive Bay
where we enjoyed hot chocolate and chips supplied by Colin,
whilst
sat under a heater that was put on to warm us up. (all
calories consumed were soon to be burnt!)
We left the shelter of the bay and punched out into a force
6 and big exciting breaking waves to land safely at Ganavan
Bay.
As the wind was forecast to remain F7 northerly for the next
few days we decided to head back to base that night and
paddle around the sheltered waters around Tayvallich the
next day so Colin summoned Jill who arrived with transport
and we headed back.
Friday 24th September
A tour of Loch Sween from Tayvallich
34km
We awoke to a clear and frosty morning. We paddled out of Tayvallich and up to the Fairy Islands which were quite
magical in the sunshine then continued around and down Loch
Sween to Taynish where we searched out Brittle Fish, Sea
Anemones and star fish. The waters were translucent,
rewarding us with a wonderful underwater world. A serene day
and the perfect end to our week long expedition
We returned to Tayvallich and bid farewell to Colin, toasted
our trip and then enjoyed a slap-up meal in the local.
Saturday 25th September 2010
The next morning we awoke to a very thick frost and a
beautiful sunrise but alas we had to head off home. The
scenery with lifting mist and the morning sun on the drive
following the Crinan Canal and down the edge of Loch Fyne
was one to take your breath away. A fitting end to an
amazing trip.
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