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Chalk to Chalk is a classic paddle, linking the chalk stacks
of Old Harry Rocks near Swanage to the chalk Needles on the
Isle of Wight. A trip planned a number of times, but called
off because of poor weather. Friday 13th doesn’t sound like
an auspicious day for a crossing, but the tides were right
and the weather looked almost perfect, so we went for it.
The plan was to start from Sandbanks, cross to Old Harry
Rocks and catch the start of the easterly tide to help us
across to the Needles, then along to Fort Albert on the
Island, cross over to Hurst Castle, and then up the small
estuary to Keyhaven, total distance around 20 nautical miles
(nms). The group comprised Barbara, Tony & I, (none of us at
the peak of fitness), with Ian providing invaluable
transport (many many thanks, Ian). Tides were just after
neaps. Set off from Sandbanks just before the planned
start time of 9:00am, and with light winds, clear blue skies
and a following tide, got to Old Harry Rocks earlier than
anticipated. We went round Old Harry Rocks to make it a real
Chalk to Chalk, then set off on a pre-calculated compass
bearing, which, counter-intuitively, felt like it was taking
us out to sea, with no sign of the Isle of Wight. We still
had a little ebb tide against us for a short while, but it
soon felt as if it were changing and our pace seemed to
increase.
A couple of stops, rafting up for a drink & nibbles. At
one stop, a couple of yachts sailed past, and we could hear
them on the radio wondering what we were doing there as it
seemed a long way out to sea, and if we were ok. Barbara
radioed them to thank them for their concern, and said we
knew what we were doing!
Gradually, the Isle of Wight became clearer through the
slight haze, first a smudge on the horizon, then more
clearly with cliffs. Because of the visual distance, the
Island appeared to be floating on the water, a perspective
which didn’t go until we got quite close.
As we approached the Island, the Shingles and the
shipping channel require some attention. I had identified a
red beacon buoy (SW Shingles) which we needed to stay to the
south of, and we headed for what we thought was the right
buoy. When we got close, we realized it wasn’t the right
buoy, the right buoy being further to the south, so we ended
up going through some choppy water as the tide surged over a
shallow area of the Shingles. Next section was across the
shipping channel, just under a mile. No shipping, but a
strong tide by this time, so a ferry glide across to the
Needles, using the lighthouse and cliff behind as a transit,
and paddling hard at about 45 degrees to avoid dropping
below the lighthouse; hard work, but dramatic and exciting.
The passage plan showed 4 hours for the 13 nms from Old
Harry Rocks to the Needles, but we had done it in around 3 ½
hours.
Quick photo opportunity at the Needles lighthouse, then
went through between the stacks (threading the Needles),
with a little overfall and some bouncy water. Then across
Alum Bay to stop for lunch on a beach.
After lunch, the passage plan was to continue along the
coast to Fort Albert, then ferry glide across to Hurst
Castle, but there was hardly any boat traffic, and it looked
calm, so we cut across directly to Hurst Castle. We came
across/went through a few little tidal races, and some bumpy
bits, but with the tidal assistance we made the distance, 2
nms, in about 30 minutes.
The round the back of Hurst Castle, and up the small
estuary to Keyhaven, a completely different landscape of mud
and salt marshes, as if we were suddenly paddling somewhere
on the East Anglian coast.
Ian was waiting for us when we got there. And as we
disembarked, someone was kind enough to ask where we had
come from, and was suitably impressed when we told them;
always a good feeling.
A classic trip in excellent conditions and with great
company; what more could we ask for!
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| Seen off by the
terrier support team |
Approaching Old Harry |
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| Tony and Hugh |
Tide race off the
Shingles |
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| Hugh at the Needles |
and Tony |
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| Lunch at Alum Bay |
Hurst Castle...nearly
back |
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| Keyhaven |
Conquering heroes! |
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